Milan - A Magnetic Mix of Culture and Style

	The world's first mall, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele 1

Located strategically on the Lombardy Plain, the Milanese have run their city as one of the most economically efficient in the country for more than 1,000 years. Its attraction lies both in its scope and adaptability - specifically - its ability to be both modern and ancient at the same time. Milan is the capital of the region of Lombardy, and has a population of 1.3 million. Include the residents of its greater metropolitan area and the number reaches four million.

In the centre of the city, Milan's striking Gothic Duomo was devotedly toiled on for more than 500 years, and maintenance work on the intricate building continues.

Born with an inherent love of commerce, shopping is a favourite Milanese pastime, and its iron-and-glass Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is the world's oldest shopping mall. The church of Santa Maria delle Grazie features Leonardo Da Vinci's Last Supper, which was nearly destroyed in the Second World War when the roof of the refectory received a bomb hit. Milan, or Milano, is home to Italy's stock exchange, and also has the country's highest density of industry. Milan is also Italy's transport hub, with the biggest international airport, greatest number of rail connections, and most comprehensive subway system.

Milan has the highest per capita income in Europe, and the city and its people are sleek, chic and stylish. The nightlife is legendary, with several innovative business owners finding new and provocative ways to attract the city's most important residents out in the evening. Stopping in Milan is an unwritten rule for any major theatre, opera or music tour. Its cuisine is both delicate and hearty, with saffron rice, or risotto, and cutlets alla Milanese, a lean cut of veal fried patiently, without breading, as staples. Another recognizable product of the city is Italy's traditional Christmas sweet cake called Panettone.

HISTORY OF MILAN

Milan has existed in some form or another for more than 2,600 years. Thought to be originally founded by the Insubres, a Celtic tribe, around 400 BC, it wasn't until it was taken into Roman territory in 222 BC that the city's status and size began to grow. The Romans named the settlement Mediolanum, which means "in the middle". Five hundred years later, the city reached its pinnacle during the period of the Empire when it became, for a short time under Bishop Saint Ambrose, capital of the Western Roman Empire. Here in 313 AD, Constantine I bestowed upon Christians the freedom to worship without fear of persecution.

Milan sits exposed on the Lombardy plain with no natural defenses. As such, its crafty population dug in deep, fortifying the city within thick walls. A maze of canals also served as protection, and connects the city with Italy's Po, Ticino and Adda rivers. Even so, Germanic tribes interested in the land's resources charged over the mountains one after another. Milan was conquered by the Lombards in 569 AD, having already suffered heavy damage from the Ostrogoths, another Germanic tribe, 30 years earlier. Unhappy with Lombardian rule, 200 years later Pope Stephen II enticed the Franks into battle as an ally, yet another Germanic tribe which had accepted orthodox Christianity as their religion. They gained power over the Lombards in 754 AD, with military leader Pepin the Short directing his armies to victory. In 800 AD Pepin's son, Charlemagne, was crowned Holy Roman Emperor and king of Frankish Italy.

For two more centuries and into the Middle Ages, Milan's people would play their hand wisely. By the 11th century the city had its own government and was virtually autonomous. Those in power included representatives from every level of education and social status. The thriving city began to expand and develop its own identity until the preoccupied Milanese failed to notice new insurgents heading up from the south. Frederick I, Holy Roman Emperor, and his armies sacked the town in 1162. Milan re-organized and recovered quickly, however, foming the Lega Lombarda with its northern allies, and regaining independence from Frederick in 1176.

The city maintained an uneasy equilibrium for the next several decades, until cronyism, nepotism and bribes would put power in the hands of the noble Visconti family, who took up the reigns of Milan in 1277. The first Visconti ruler was Oddone, who called himself the Archbishop of Milan. Their family emblem, a viper stretching its mouth around the body of a small child, can still be seen on edifices around Milan, and depicts their ruthlessness and focus on achieving goals, but also a belief in the frailty of human life.

Gian Galeazzo Visconti (1351-1402), ruled Milan twice — first as a Lord, then as a Duke, and leaves a legacy as its most hated leader of all time. Cruel and unforgiving, he is perhaps best known for developing the "Lenten treatment", which involves 40 days of relentless torture. He is also famous for having prisoners devoured by dogs. Power-hungry, he moved quickly to take Verona, Vicenza and Pavia, lands encompassing much of the Po River valley, and henceforth used his loot to buy his Dukedom from the Holy Roman Emperor. Galeazzo's aim was to create a united northern Italy, a superpower in its own right, but Florence and Bologna were of different minds. In 1394, Galeazzo began his campaign against the two cities, and both surprisingly fell within a year. The pair battled back, however, and the war dragged on without a clear winner for years. Galeazzo died in 1402 of a fever, the same that was affecting large amounts of the city's population, and left his embittered family to argue over who would take control of the city. Florence and Bologna, tired of fighting, simply went on their own business. The Visconti line died in 1976, its last member being one of Italy's most famous filmmakers, Luchino Visconti.

	The Castello Sforzesco, former home to one of Milan's most noble families 2

But, besides the apparant brutality of the family, during this period several works of art were commissioned by family members who patronized the arts.

In 1447, the Sforza (Strong) family took over for the weakened Viscontis, their numbers having dwindled dramatically. The plague of 1402 had caused 50,000 deaths. The Sforzas also used their resources to donate to the city, employing Leonardo Da Vinci to create the Last Supper in 1498.

After being northern Italy's bully for centuries, Milan was forced to concede to two separate foreign rules. The city was conquered in the early 16th century, first by France, then, shortly after, Spain, in 1535. Austria would enter the fray, and the years marched on, seeing Milan in a continuous tug-of-war between eastern and western Europe. In 1713, the east would be victorious, making Austria the official rulers of Milan. Queen Maria Theresa left the city awash in her favourite colour, a restrained, dull gold-yellow, fit for the walls of the Palazzo Reale.

From 1629 to 1631, the Italian Plague raged through northern Italy. This epidemic, often referred to as the Great Plague of Milan, claimed the lives of approximately 280,000 people of Lomabardy.

In 1797 Napoleon Bonaparte took northern Italy back from the Austrians, making Milan the capital of the Cisalpine Republic, which included lands south of the Po. North of the Po was the Transpadane Republic. The two Republics were united five years later, and two years after that, Napoleon crowned himself king of Italy. In 1814, Austria returned with a vengeance, taking control of Milan briefly, but Napoleon III (the step-grandson of Bonaparte) and his armies decisively rolled over the Austrian army in 1859, returning Milan the hands of the French, who allowed the city to rule itself until the autonomous Kingdom of Italy was created in 1870.

The 20th century would bring more upheaval to Milan, starting with the First World War. Italy, although in an long-standing alliance with former enemies Germany and Austria, refused to honour its outdated pact with the world's tyrants and declared war against Austria-Hungary in 1915, and against Germany in 1916. Milan remained relatively untouched, however, as Italy's armies held their ground at the Paive River, which ends near Venice. The war would end with the country, and its population, deeply in debt and in shock.

	The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele's entrance 3

After the war, Italy developed a Socialist government, as its population struggled to recoup their financial and personal losses. Italy's soon-to-be most recognizable and infamous leader of the 20th century began to create revolutionary mumblings. Benito Mussolini was part of a group of revolutionaries in Milan that had broken with the ruling Socialists over the issue of Italy's entry into the First World War and the placement of the new borders afterward (most had thought they would receive more land than they did by agreeing to fight). The organization was termed the Fascio, and through them Mussolini began publishing the Il Popolo d'Italia (The Italian People) in 1914. He exploited fears of instability, brought on by the depression, with relentless propaganda. He gained enough support that, five years later, he was able to form his own political party, the Fasci di Combattimento.

Even though he lost the subsequent elections of 1919, the popularity of fascism grew and the party prospered, leading Victor Emmanuel III to appoint Mussolini prime minister in 1931. The country began a partnership with the Germans, eventually signing the "Pact of Steel" in 1939, stating a promise for immediate aid, support and collaboration in the event of a war. One year later, Italy declared war on Britain and France, following Germany's lead, and they quickly moved to capture British territories in North Africa. But Italy's position, both globally and politically, left it to be the recipient of attacks from tip to tail. Their military strength had been sapped by their support of Francesco Franco during the Spanish Civil War, and they turned out to be more of a liability to the Germans than an asset. Party meetings were held at Milan's the Palazzo Castini, which was destroyed during the Second World War (along with much of central Milan). Finally, in 1943, Mussolini overstrained his military while attempting to annex Albania. He lost the support of his colleagues, was stripped of his power and the country surrendered to the Allies. Arrested and placed in jail in northern Italy, he was rescued during a dangerous coup by the German military. He was able to set up a rogue government in Gargnano, but, shortly after that, was recaptured by the Allieds and tried in a summary court-marshall along with his mistress, Claretta Petacci. The pair was executed, and hung by their heels at an Esso station along with conspirators at the Piazzale Loreto in Milan on April 29, 1945.

Milan survived several carpet bombings throughout the war, suffering great damage, but Milan's most important piece of art survived miraculously. The Santa Maria delle Grazie, which houses Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper in its refectory, was damaged after one particularly heavy attack, and the painting, which was already in poor shape, barely survived behind its hastily-erected barrier of scaffolding and sandbags.

The resilient Milan simply moved on, rebuilding its infrastructure thoughtfully and encouraging its population to explore new ideas and technologies. Over its lifetime great works of art have resided in the city. Some of which were stolen by Germanic tribes while occupying northern Italy, others by the French, and still more reduced to rubble by the Allied bombings of the Second World War, but multitudes of artifacts remain to illuminate the importance and standing of this land-locked Italian city.

	The facade of Milan's Duomo, the fourth-largest cathedral in the world, able to hold 40,000 4

ATTRACTIONS

Cultural
True to its form, fashionable Milan is home to what is often considered the world's first shopping mall. The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, built between 1865 and 1877, is shaped like a cross and is topped by a coloured glass-and-iron dome. Aside from keeping shopaholics warm and dry, it also houses some of Milan's most famous shops and restaurants. It is a tribute to both commerce and art, two elements deeply ingrained in the city's personality.

The Quadrilatero d'Oro, or the Golden Rectangle, runs between Via Monte Napoleone and the Via Della Spiga, and features a dizzying array of shops with internationally-known names like Gucci, Armani, Prada, Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana.

One of Milan's newer buildings, as well as one of its most recognized and utilized, is the Fiera di Milano, which is actually a collection of enclosures and facilities that merge together to form one of the largest exhibition centres in the world. A huge cash infusion from the federal government helped create a complex comprising 60,000 sq. m (71,760 sq. yd) of uncovered space, and 345,000 sq. m (412,600 sq. yd) of covered space. Most major exhibitions, fairs and conferences are held at the Fiera di Milano, which is technologically equipped to support any kind of presentation.

Milan's most well-known venue, made strictly for the arts, is undoubtedly La Scala, which is known to be Italy's premiere opera house. Its original opening night was in 1778 with a performance of Antonio Salieri's opera L'Europa Riconosciuta. Nearly destroyed during the Second World War, the theatre was hastily repaired, re-opening three years later. Further renovations occuring from 2002 to 2004 saw the removal of heavy carpets to improve the sound quality, the construction of a larger stage to accommodate more productions and the addition of interpretive seat monitors that allow international audiences to follow in their own language. La Scala, with its lush, red-velvet interior, is said to be the most acoustically perfect theatre in the world.

	The many spires of Milan's Gothic Duomo 5

Spiritual
The city's Duomo is certainly one of its most aesthetically pleasing structures. Its huge Gothic facade is crammed with 135 marble spires and more than 3,000 statues throughout, the details of which give it the appearance of a lacy wedding cake, melting slightly in the warm Lombardian sun. The fourth largest church in the world, Milan's Duomo seats 40,000 people. Its interior is divided into five aisles by 52 columns, and the entire structure took more than 500 years to complete. It must be continuously worked on tenaciously in order to maintain its current condition. Any project that seems to be taking an inordinate amount of time is referred to by Milanese as la fabricca del duomo, or, the "making of the Duomo."

On Milan's roster of important buildings are several more churches and houses of worship. The Chiesa de San Lorenzo Maggiore is the oldest church in the city, and its dome reaches higher than the Duomo's. The ancient Christian house of worship has been remodeled several times since its original 4th century manifestation, but there remains 15th century mosaics, one with a rare depiction of a beardless Christ.

Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper was painted in the Chiesa de Santa Maria delle Grazie between 1495 and 1497. Da Vinci made an initial error, using a technique to seal the damp walls that did not hold his paints well, and only 20 years later the work began to show its first signs of deterioration. The Last Supper, which depicts Jesus enjoying his last meal before the events of the crucifixtion, was called the "saddest painting in the world," by writer Aldous Huxley. He had two reasons for saying so - the condition of the work of art and Christ's imminent, terrible fate. Several attempts to restore the scene have only resulted in muddying the picture, making it difficult to tell exactly where da Vinci's work begins and that of others ends. But, the painting remains a masterwork that has touched art lovers worldwide for generations.

Museums and Galleries
The Visconti clan built the Castello Sforzesco in northwestern Milan in the 14th century while ruling the city. It was taken over by the Sforza family, who decided to rebuild the structure, its pinkish-red, fortress-like appearance was meant to be a symbol of both Milan's strength and beauty. Today, the castle houses a municipal museum crammed with artifacts found locally.

The Pinacoteca di Brera, or the Brera Gallery is the country's, if not the world's, most comprehensive collection of northern Italian art. It exists thanks to Napolean, who used a 17th century palazzo, now acting as the museum, as a repository for the many personal possessions he confiscated from public and private holdings as taxes or punishments. A bronze rendition of the emperor himself greets visitors from his eternal stance at the entrance of the courtyard. Three of Italy's greatest artistic treasures hang here: Andrea Mantegna's Dead Christ, Raphael's Betrothal of the Virgin and Piero della Francesca's Madonna with Saints (the Montefeltro Altarpiece).

Nineteenth century collector Giacomo Poldi-Pezzoli amassed enough Venetian, northern Italian and Flemish paintings to have his entire villa and its contents turned into a museum, the Museo Poldi-Pezzoli, when he generously donated his treasures to the city in 1881. There are examples of porcelain, jewels and furnishings from the original palazzo on display.

For a more intellectual approach to history, the Leonardo da Vinci National Museum of Science and Technology pays tribute to the scientific and artistic mind of Leonardo da Vinci, with working models, made to scale, of his sketches of submarines and airplanes that had not yet been invented. He even came up with a design for an armoured tank. The building was a former Benedictine monastery, its tranquil surroundings lending to the study of the hundreds of blueprints for trains, typewriters and optical devices da Vinci left behind. For authenticity, there are even a couple of real-life recreations of how a 15th century laboratory would have appeared.

TRANSPORTATION

	A view from above of Milan's busy train station, the Stazione Cadorna. The city's transit system is very extensive and useful 6

Public Transportation
From the centre of the city, loosely marked by its magnificent Duomo, streets radiate out in several orbits, giving the appearance of a solar system, with the cathedral being the sun. Contained within these concentric circles are 11 small, historical districts, usually referred to by their most major landmark. Getting around these districts is made easy by an extensive metro system, plus buses and trams that run all night. Tickets may be purchased for time increments of one hour to a full day. Before boarding, tickets must be stamped with the correct date and time, as failure to do so may incur a hefty fine. Look for information on public transportation lines, routes and times at any bus or metro stop, as well as visitor information centres.

Milan Metro System
The metro system in Milan is divided into three lines: M1 - red, M2 - green and M3 - yellow. The "M" designates Milan Metro, and serves the city only. Suburban, or "S" lines, run to areas surrounding the city, while destinations outside greater Milan are served by the Regional Railway Service, or "R" line.

Airports
Malpensa International Airport (MXP), is located in Varese, approximately 45 km (29 mi) northwest of Milan. The Malpensa receives most of the incoming, intercontinental flights coming into the city, and is one of Italy's two main airports, the second being Rome's Fiumicino Airport. Milan is also within close proximity to the Linate Airport (LIN), which serves mostly Italian and European flights. Both are connected to the city by rail. Milan's Stazione Centrale train station has several agencies to aid travellers, as well as bars, restaurants and shops to make waiting times more interesting.

Driving to Milan
Almost all roads approaching and leaving Milan are toll roads. A ticket detailing the current mileage of a vehicle will be issued once turning on to one of the country's major highways, and checked again after the road has been exited. Drivers are charged according to how far they have travelled. Information kiosks known as Punto Blu are stationed along the motorways, and provide assistance and directions. Services such as the Viacard or Telepass allow frequent commuters to pass through toll gates without waiting.

In the city are three alternate routes that enable harried drivers to skirt the congested city centre while attempting to reach their destinations. They are designated on signs as Tangenziale Ovest, Tangenziale Est and Tangenziale Nord, and circle around the city's busiest areas.

Speed Limits
Residential and inner-city streets all have a speed limit of 50 km/h (31 mph) unless otherwise posted. On secondary roads, the limit is 110 km/h (68 mph), and highways allow a maximum speed of 130 km/h (80mph). Maximum speeds are posted on signs with black numbers inside a red circle.

Renting a Car
There are many large chain companies, like Hertz, Thrifty, Budget and Europcar, as well as independent agencies, operating in Milan. It is advisable, however, to make rental car arrangements prior to leaving home — it generally works out to be cheaper and experts take care of the paperwork included with the business of the European Union's (EU) Value Added Tax (VAT). If arranging a rental from within Italy, the price should be quoted as "turnkey", meaning it includes the cost of the VAT. Most rental companies are represented at Milan's Malpensa Airport (Aeroporto Malpensa).

Anyone renting a car in Italy must be over the age of 21, and all drivers are responsible for damage to or loss of the vehicle. Italian rental agencies require all clients to buy theft-protection policies, but supplemental insurance should not be necessary for those with adequate coverage abroad. Generally, policies from most other countries should provide coverage for any most traffic incidents while driving in Italy. An International Driver's License is also not a necessity, but is easily recognizeable by authorities and useful to have.

Milanese Vehicles
Almost all cars in Italy, and Europe for that matter, have standard transmissions. Automatics usually need to be booked well in advance. Generally, the models available are along the lines of Fiats, Peugeots, Renaults and some Fords (such as Fiestas, Mondeos and Kas).

Most Italian towns forbid the use of a horn. A large sign with the words Zona di Silenzio, or "silent zone", will designate where it is illegal to honk.

Parking in Milan
Milan's historic centre is relatively compact, and best discovered on two feet. Most sights are an easy stroll from one another, and only walking can result in discovering the city's lesser-known restaurants and bistros, and, perhaps, a new personal favourite place to dine or relax. Parking is also notoriously difficult to find near to the main attractions. The city has both private parking lots as well as municipally-owned lots. Known as SostaMilano, municipal lots require parking to be validated with Scrape-and-Park cards. The cards are available at tabacchis and from authorized staff at the lots, and must be displayed on the vehicle's dashboard.

Navigating Milan
Italian addresses have the building's number following the street name. Some numbers may be followed by a slash and a capital letter or the term "bis". For example, "Via Santa Spirito 3/A", or "Via Santa Spirito 3/bis", denotes the building is located next door to "3". Numbers in red that are followed by a slash and the letter "r" (Via Santo Spirito 3/r) are always businesses.

Fuel
Benzina is Italian for gasoline. Unleaded gasoline is benzina senza piombo, and diesel is called gasolio. More than half of Italian vehicles run on diesel, which is slightly cheaper than unleaded at fuel pumps.

Bicycles
Eco-friendly Milan has over 70 km (44 mi) of bicycle lanes that lead pedallers quickly and easily about the city. There are more than 4,700 parking spots for bicycles, many of them within the city centre. It is also possible, within designated, non-peak hours, to take a bike on the metro, with a maximum of four per car.

WEATHER

Spring
From March to May, a day in Milan can be both sunny and rainy intermittently. Temperatures are generally mild, but can become hot, with daily maximums in May reaching 22°C (72°F). Weather inconsistencies are easily ignorable, however, as during this low season Milan becomes far more accessible to tourists. Streets are quiet, with one exception being Easter, when visitors abound in the city while Milanese natives escape for quieter destinations. Finally, as the country's children do their best to absorb its vast history, packs of inquisitive children on school trips can sometimes have a slight affect on the attractions' ambiance.

Summer
The dog-days of summer are Milan's busiest. The streets teem with people of all shapes and sizes from all ends of the earth, and people-watching takes on a whole new meaning. Attractions may be crowded, so plan ahead, as many of Milan's major sights require an appointment to visit. August sees the Milanese flee their sometimes-unbearably hot city for the coast. Air conditioning is not a luxury, but an absolute necessity in Milan during the summer.

Fall
September through November is generally comfortable for long sightseeing walks outside, although November can carry some of the bite of winter. September is a dry month, with comfortable average daily highs of 24°C (75°F). Bring a slicker or an umbrella for October and November, however, as it tends to rain for a period on most days. The real perk of fall, however, is witnessing Milan's residents take their city back after lending it to curious visitors for the summer, and life's pace becomes a little more Italian again.

Winter
Although this is easily Milan's slowest season for tourism, don't expect the city to be asleep. Milan is a vibrant city filled with a population of artists and thinkers, and the winter months offer a chance to mingle with the city's movers and shakers as they relax at their favourite after-work haunts. Nightclubs are easier to get into and the prices for accommodations drops. Although it can be cool, the temperature rarely drops below 0°C (32°F), and there is relatively little precipitation, with the month of December averaging 60 mm of rain.

1. Jan Sundstedt; c/o Stock.xchng; The world's first mall, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.
2. Charis Tsevis; c/o Stock.xchng; The Castello Sforzesco, former home to one of Milan's most noble families.
3. M.J. Baphomet; c/o Stock.xchng; The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele's entrance.
4. Alex Seto; c/o Stock.xchng; The facade of Milan's Duomo, the fourth-largest cathedral in the world. Its capacity is 40,000.
5. M.J. Baphomet; c/o Stock.xchng; The many spires of Milan's Gothic Duomo.
6. Egidio Bacigalupi; c/o Stock.xchng; A view from above of Milan's busy train station, the Stazione Cadorna. The city's transit system is very extensive and useful.